Doha Diary: A Historian Amid the Iran War
Doha diary – Renowned historian and author Rila Mukherjee had planned to travel from the United States to India via Qatar Airways (QA) on 25 February 2026. Her itinerary—Shreveport, Dallas Fort Worth, Doha, and Kolkata—was meant to land her in Kolkata by the evening of 26 February or the early hours of 27 February. Yet, as of 8 March, she remained in Doha, stranded due to the closure of Qatar’s airspace following the US-Israeli strike on Iran. Commercial flights had been suspended, leaving passengers dependent on evacuation efforts. Relief flights to Europe and the Americas were already in operation, with additional ones set for Asia and Africa the following day. However, Mukherjee’s journey to Kolkata was still pending.
Quarantine in a Cosmopolitan Hotel
Today marks the ninth day since 28 February, and Mukherjee is camped out in Doha, awaiting resolution. The Royal Riviera Hotel, a four-star establishment on the Corniche, houses a diverse group of transit passengers. Despite its age and occasional plumbing issues, the hotel offers a safe and welcoming environment. Its staff, a mix of Asians from Bangladesh, the Philippines, Sri Lanka, Nepal, and North Africans like Algerians and Moroccans, handles the challenges with grace and efficiency.
“Today is 8 March. I am now camping out in Doha for the ninth day since 28 February. The Qatar airspace is shut and padlocked. The authorities have thrown away the key.”
The hotel’s location on the Corniche provides a view of the Persian Gulf, a sight that brings particular joy to a maritime historian. While the situation remains uncertain, Mukherjee feels reassured by the support provided by Qatar Airways and the country. QA representatives check in twice daily, but there’s no clear timeline for her evacuation to Kolkata. Most of the passengers’ luggage is yet to arrive, with some reports of missing bags among the South African travelers.
Many elderly passengers express concern over dwindling supplies of essential medicines. Mukherjee’s medication lasts another week, but the prospect of delayed departure looms. Evacuation via a land route through Saudi Arabia to Riyadh is an option, though it would require a seven-hour journey. A leased QA aircraft could then transport them to India, but the process involves securing a Saudi e-visa and arranging overland travel. This adds layers of complexity and uncertainty to their plans.
A Delayed Journey Begins
Mukherjee’s initial flight from Shreveport to Dallas Fort Worth, operated by American Airlines (AA), had been delayed due to a nose gear malfunction. The plane made an emergency landing, with fire engines, firefighters, EMTs, and ambulances on standby. Fortunately, no injuries were reported, and her daughter-in-law’s department vice-chair, who was on the flight, described the incident as “really scary” upon deplaning. That day, no more AA flights departed Shreveport Regional Airport, forcing Roo and Stephanie to return to the airport and take her home for a restless night.
The next day, Mukherjee was rebooked on the same AA flight but faced a full connection to Doha. Despite AA staff in Shreveport knowing there were no available seats, they sent her onward to Dallas Fort Worth. Now, with the war disrupting her original schedule, she reflects on the chain of events that left her in Doha. “How is it that I am still in Doha?” she muses. The tale highlights the risks of booking flights with multiple stops, especially when the first leg is delayed or diverted.
